SUBMARINEMUSEUMS.ORG Forum
Individual Submarine Boards => USS Batfish (SS-310) => Topic started by: Mark Sarsfield on April 16, 2008, 04:31:55 PM
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I think that there is a way to mechanically/manually operate the dive planes in the event of total hydraulic failure. I'm wondering if the Batfish bow dive planes could also be lowered manually? I think it would look cool with the planes down. Plus, they probably need to be inspected and painted, anyway.
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I cannot say. I have never inspected that option....
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I'm certain there is, but if I recall from my reading, those cranks were very hard to turn even back then. If they aren't labeled, maybe someone has a diagram? It seems like they are in some odd place.
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If your bow planes rigging motor set up is the same a the Drum you should see a wheel around the shaft of the motor that looks like a wheel on a chain fall. You put a chain around it and work it like a chain fall, will try to remember to take a photo tomarrow.
Tom Bowser
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Tom,
Are the motors in the forward torpedo room on the ceiling or are they under the deck in the superstructure - I personally wouldn't want an electric motor exposed to salt water, but you never know? Thanks for the photos ahead of time.
If lowering these bad boys is electrically operated, we might want to consider running power to them at some point and operate them locally (torp. rm.) with a newly installed switch. Would be handy for maintenance. First, we'll make sure that they aren't frozen in place.
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First, we'll make sure that they aren't frozen in place.
LOL...you got more going on than a one-legged man in a butt kick contest. ;D
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Yes they are in the overhead and are Dc powered. You need to check under the forward deck also to insure that the gears haven't been locked in place some how and wouldn't hurt to throw some grease to everything, look for trash in the gear teth also.
Tom
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A lot of this stuff can be done in an afternoon... and I'm just generating ideas, anyway. I can't weld and I'm not an electrician. So, it's really ideas for others.
The 1MC is a long-term project, too. I need to find other things int he short term.
I did find out that the 1MC is modular and can come apart. Apparently, that is how they repaired the one on Silversides. It's a lot easier to work on when it sits on a work bench. Preferably, it would be nice to do it in the new work room in the battery compartment, rather than lugging it all the way home.
Also, I was given the idea of running power directly to one side of the fuse and the throw switch terminals for the 1MC on the I.C. Switch Board. Cord would plug into a standard outlet and the other end would have alligator clips. You close the switch when you want to complete the circuit and give the 1MC juice. This could be a short term solution for powering up the 1MC stack (even just to test it) until power is restored to the whole switch board. My only concern is blowing receptacle fuses.
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I see the Gear. I did not inspect any further. There is no telling what condition the motors/or hydrolics are like up there, Not to mention the mechanics that will be involved...
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The Fleet Type Submarine (Navpers 16160) tells how to switch to manual rigging of the planes.
There are some switches that have to be set and so on...I looked it up last night but can't remember most of it as I was just browsing.
I'll bring my printed copy on Saturday...maybe Vaughn, Rick and I can take a look.
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I'm not too worried about the hydraulics, since that system only operated the pitch of the planes. It sounds like the raising and lowering is strictly a transmission run by an electric motor. I'm sure that they have to have an entirely mechanical bypass, in case of total loss of power and hydraulics.
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Here are photos of bow planes rigging, in particular the chain drive, all you have to do is find the right size chain, put it around the wheel and connect the chain ends, then find some really strong heavy people because it is going to be stiff. The same motor also runs the windlass so you need to make sure it is set up to rig the planes. good luck. If you need the photos of the gears under the deck let me know.
Tom Bowser
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I know which motor you speak of, now. I think there is a clutch handle that tells the transmission/motor whether to operate the windlass or the dive planes. I bet she'll be very stiff. We should probably find all of the grease fittings that we can and grease it up, first.
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Something else to consider here. There is a oil pan under this moter. It has been collecting Hydrolic fluid for some time. Again we may need to look at the condition of the Hydrolics.......
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I understand your concern, but raising and lowering the planes is separate from the hydraulic system. It's strictly supposed to be a transmission run by an electric motor. It may be collecting transmission fluid. If it's sticky and thick like syrup it's transmission fluid or oil. If it's thin and watery like brake fluid, then it's hydraulic fluid.
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The oil in the hydraulic system on the Drum is about like 30 or 40 wieght motor oil.
Tom Bowser
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No problem. there. I am just covering our bases...
part of my job is to play devisl advocate.
Right after tightwade and major pain in the Ars ;D
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No problem. You're the guy that has to clean it up, if we screw it up, anyway.
The oil in the hydraulic system on the Drum is about like 30 or 40 wieght motor oil.
What are you guys using for hydraulic fluid these days? I was thinking that we might end up having to use skydrol, which is used in aircraft hydraulic systems.
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We aren't using the hydraulic system, this is oil we have drained out from some of the piping and cleaned out of the pump room bilge.
Tom Bowser
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I wonder if it's cosmaline or something similar? The Navy may have put a preservative in the system to keep it from rusting. How long was the boat in mothballs before you guys got it?
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Hardly any. The boat was in New Orleans until 1969 as a reserve boat. We picked it up later that year in Port Orange TX. The boat did not see any sea duty from 1959 to 1969 though.
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Mark S
No it is hydraulic oil, we recently bought hydraulic oil from Catipiller and it is the same consistancy, heavy duty hydraulic oil is much heaver than brake fluid.
Tom
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That's important to know. How much fluid did you need to buy and what did it cost?
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Can't be too much, most of the logging jobs we go to will have a pile of 5 gallon buckets of hydraulic fluid for when their loaders blow a hose.
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It was for the ram the movie people brought to raise and lower the scope 5', it took 4 gal at about 11.00/gal. I am sure big accounts could get it for a lot less.
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I think the hydraulic tank for the Batfish is right in the control room to the right of the "Christmas tree". There are also two switches to operate the pump motors, a hydraulic pressure gauge, an air pressure gauge, and one or two site tubes to monitor oil level. I tried turning the valves to the site tubes and they were frozen in place. The tank looks like it would hold about 10 to 15 gallons and appears to be empty.