Messages

1

USS Batfish (SS-310) / Re: Batfish Deck

« on: November 06, 2008, 10:18:02 PM »

Been there Done that. 

DON'T Re-invent the wheel here.  Torsk has had the same problems and there are some work arounds.  From what I understand your getting purple heart.  It's a good HARD Stable wood, with a tight grain.  It WILL be hard to get paint to stick to it BUT the MACRO EPOXY Primer will take care of that. As for the wood aging it WILL turn Gray NOT brown or black.

Probably best thing to do with the superstructure after repairs to steel is:

1.) Use a 2 part MACRO EPOXY Primer on steel and wood.  This stuff is super thin and gets in UNDER rust, loose paint, etc. and seals it in, encapsulating it. 
Only drawback is it takes 24 hours to set up and dry.  Sherwin Williams makes it.  It's a marine painting system and the topcoat is vinyl (YUK!!! )

2.)  Get a good Alkyd Enamel (Rustoleum or Equiv.)  for Gray.  We've been using Rustoleum Ocean Gray and Rustoleum Semi Gloss Black.   Make sure it's a Blue Back not a Brown Black.   Or if International Paint has a Marine Epoxy that they are willing to donate or even bring down to Rustoleum prices, use that. The Epoxy will last one hell of a lot longer than an alkyd, which lasts a hell of a lot longer than a vinyl.

3.) Fade in the turn of the superstructure edge.  NO HARD EDGE.  Use a sprayer and feather edge it.  Make it so that when someone looks straight down over it they DO NOT SEE GRAY. 

 
When using the topcoat for the First Time, put down TWO COATS!  Let the Stuff set up at least 4 hours between coats (even in the OKLA Summers).  With the Gray and Black on the vertical surfaces of the superstructure it will need touch up or a re-coat in 5-6 years.  The horizontals (deck) will require every two-three years.  Your deck is similar in structure to ours in that it's a mix and the paint wears off faster than it fades, checks, cracks, peels, etc.  HOWEVER We DON'T have a fenced in section of plywood and DO allow visitors to roam all over deck.  We do keep a section (2ft across) the length of the boat for those who prefer high-heels (personally you better be wearing a skirt with those heels) but I'd rather have the museum require them to wear flats on the boat.  You'd probably be better off keeping the fenced in area.  Kids just LOVE to climb on the wire ropes and swing, and it's a looooonnnnnng way down to hard ground.      Although some adults/parents are just as bad if not worse.

It doesn't matter what kind of topcoat you use on the deck due to visitor wear and the deck cooking in the sun.  Wear and deterioration is accelerated as it's a horizontal surface.  So be prepared to paint every two years or so.  It takes me about 8 hours to paint the deck from stem to stern with a roller after it's been run over with a scraper and a needle gun.  Don't worry about the sides and the bottom of the deck boards too much. The initial coats will be sufficient for about eight-ten years.  It doesn't get as much direct sun, rain, snow, etc as the ttop.  TWO good coats at first with a re-coat every two-three years is sufficient. 

In the last ten years we've only had to paint the sail TWICE.  And that's mainly from interior deterioration (backside pinholes) and pigeon crap.  Bird Crap is your biggest problem as far as paint holding up.  If you've got a major pigeon problem, you may end up having to paint every two years instead of 5 on the vertical surfaces.   


Sideboard Numbers 18" High 12" across with a 4" thickness.  White with Black offset of 2" on the right side and lower diagonals and bottoms.  Note:  Those numbers are what I remember (I'll let Darrin tell you how feeble minded you can get when you hit 53! ) but they are bound to be off.  If your numbers look good take a metal punch and make marks at each corner.  When you get to the point where you are ready to paint in the numbers, just tape off from punch mark to punch mark, and go to town. 


If you have a pot sprayer it goes a lot faster.  AND you can get places that rollers and brushes can't. 

Have fun,  I DON'T ENVY you guys one bit.   AND FOR GAWDS SAKE DON'T PAINT ANY TEETH ON HER!!!

Doc

2

Museum Submarine Discussion / Re: Air System

« on: October 09, 2008, 07:45:00 PM »

When we first go to test the system, we will need to keep it charged over a period weeks along the methods that were spelled out in previous posts by the Torsk guys. 


Remember a couple of things here.  Unless your valves have hammer handles, you should have a special wrench to open the banks.  The 225# system MUST NOT be energized (air from the banks or a compressor) while no one (vols/management) is aboard. Unless the touristas are carrying a wrench (12" cresent) then they aren't gonna energize the system.  Just keep the banks shut when not using them.  You could also put "DANGER" tags on the valves themselves.  Tends to keep prying hands away.


1.) Attach the small compressor to a Q.D. in one of the Torpedo rooms.  Bring the pressure up in the header line ONLY, SLOWLY!  Check all the, Salvage air Valves, these are on both sides of the W.T. bulkhead although the air line is on one side only.  (chain them down in centered posit. so they can't turn).  There should be a valve with a drain in the AER STBD Side, outboard of the Genset.  It's for the compensating tank or the (I can't remember the other one).  Also on TORSK there is an emergency engine shutdown valve over the STBD Controllerman's posit. that runs off the 225# system.  As your's is a center cubicle, and DOESN'T have a snorkel, you may NOT have this particular set-up. 

2.) The 225# system ALSO charges the IMPULSE AIR BANKS in the Torpsedo rooms.  Double check that the inlet valve in both rooms is SHUT, Locked and Tagged BEFORE initial lite off.

3.) The Q.D.'s are usually near the ends of the compartments. Torpedo room it's near the Impulse air manifold on STBD Side. In Control it's above the manifold that has the control valves for 225# FWD, and AFT, #1 Aux, #2 Aux, Safety Blow.  Engine Rooms are outboard the STBD Side engines FWD.  Maneuvering should be near the Lathe Position(not sure for single cube boat). 

4.) Topside you should have a hull stop in the Control room just above the Nav Table.  This covers the Ships Whistle, and 1-possibly 2 Q.D.'s on either side of the fairwater, near the teardrop shape hole(which is where the dockside HP charging air connection is. 

5.) Once you prove out the header, Compartment Salvage Air Valves, and associated Q.D.'s are tight and working correctly (includes the main gauge for 2225# air on the Main air gauge board). Then you can use the header for tools.  You can isolate the banks from the header, by 2-3 valves and work on them while having the compressor work the header directly. 

The setup on TORSK is different than Batfish.  Pictures show what we did.  But you will have to physically hand over hand your system to prove it out and rule out any problems. 

WATCH OUT FOR PRESERVATIVE in the LINES!!!  It will SPRAY all over if you're not careful.  Take a hose on the end of the system and valve it.  Build up 50#.  Open the valve into a semi closed bucket and run the compressor for 20 minutes or so to get as much as you can out of the main header.  You may have to open each Compt. Salv. Air Valve to get out the pockets of preservative in the side lines.  Wear Ponchos!!!


Then work on each bank in turn.  Start from the manifold, and open each connection in turn, refresh the o-rings, and button each connection up.  Take each hull stop off and tear it down, repack the stem, lap the seat if needed, and put in new o-rings.  Once you get it all buttoned up, then test the bank.  Again do one bank at a time. 

Another + is that the water system runs off air pressure.  Up to you guys whether you want to get into that.


Doc

3

Museum Submarine Discussion / Re: Air System

« on: October 07, 2008, 08:11:51 PM »

Darrin is mostly correct above.  The compressor in LLAB is a DEVILBIS 65Gal 6.5 peak hp unit.  It develops 125 psi.  it has been adjusted to get 135MAX.  Tie it in to the compartment Salvage air line at the engine room/AB bulkhead.

Having been involved with the 225# system since we 1st got the compressor in 1999, got a few suggestions.

1.) Regardless of whether you have qual drawings or not, DO A HAND OVER HAND and TAG the LINE in 2 places in each compartment (225psi header).  Make detailed drawings for maintenance, and a not so detailed drawing for operation.

2.) Work one (1) bank to full operation at a time.  You WILL have to open all joints and replace the square cut O-rings.  Also overhaul the particulate filter for each bank.(it's in a different place for each bank.)

3.) DO NOT go thru the 225# reducer as you will not have the psi to do so.  This reducer takes 600# and reduces to 225# for the system.  DO use the 225# Reducer bypass as your entry and exit point to and from the manifold.

4.) DO NOT bring the bank up to system pressure as soon as you get the bank and the lines tight.  The banks have not been hydro'ed for at least 40 years.  Bring the bank up in 20-25# stages per week.  Once you get to 100# stretch it out to 2 weeks per increment.

5.) DO Overhaul the GAUGE LINE VALVES on the manifold.  These have a NASTY Tendency to leak.  And they are on the Bank side of the manifold so they get bank pressure all the time. 

Example:  Say you want #3 bank working.  Open the following valves in order.  #3 Bank, Cross Connect#1(Fwd Stack of valves), Cross Connect #2(Aft stack of valves), 225# Reducer bypass.  Now you should have air in the 225# system by the gauge on the board.  NOTE:  There is a dump valve on the bottom of the manifold connected to the cross-connect which is part of the 3000# ship HP AIR system. Left to right facing the manifold: HP AIR FWD, DUMP(Exhaust valve), HP AIR AFT, Dockside Charging.  (I may have the last two reversed, your ship qual drawings will tell you). 

To Get #6 working, you open #6 Bank, and the 225# reducer bypass. 

To shut down the system just reverse procedure and blow it down using the dump valve on the hp manifold.

The 65gal compressor will bring up a bank in 4-5 hours to 125#.  That is constant running.  Break in the compressor for the 1st year or so according to the manufacturer spec (usually 15 on / 15 off).  Put a 12" fan close (standard Navy Compartment fan)to the pump and run it on high to help keep the pump cooler.  Change the oil once a month for the 1st year using straight 30WEIGHT NON DETERGENT OIL.   After that 4 times a year or when ever it gets dirty.  Check level frequently.

Size:  The 65Gal was a gold plated bitch to get in the boat .  we had to remove the AB Ladder and mounts.  and the airlock door into the crews berthing are from the mess.   A smaller tanked compressor with a large pump will suffice as you will be using the banks as storage volume.  If you just have a pump with motor, you can tie it directly into the  compartment Salvage air line @ the FER/AB Bulkhead.  Use a "T" and a valve between the 225# system and the compressor.


The topside air (horn and tools line) hull valve should be in the overhead in control, STBD side, over the edge of the NAV Table.  It will be a hull stop with a drain line and valve on the drain line.  If someone is on the bridge you can scare the beejesus out of the river traffic, touristas, or just run air tools topside. 



Now get cracking DINK!!!        

4

Submarine Related Chatter / Re: Standard Patrol Procedures - Diesel Engines

« on: June 12, 2008, 08:48:36 PM »

 boats would shift to battery when the order to Dive went down. Give the snipes(2 in each room) as much time as possible to get the engines shut down, shut the main induction valve in each room, BOTH exhaust valves on EACH ENGINE, shift the fuel and oil pumps to slow speed, shut the cooling water valves on the sea chests, secure any aux. machinery in the room, etc., in less than 30 sec.  As the Electric Motors actually drove the shafts, all they needed was a source of Juice.  Battery was instantaneous, with speed changes as simple as turning the rheostats for the motors after shifting the bus from GEN to BATT.   

Usual procedure was prepare to dive (shut down the engine(s), shift to battery bus), Dive(turn the rheostats to full lock in emergency or whatever speed the OOD called up and get the hell down).  once down and trimmed, slow down to 1/3 bell, and power down all un-necessary loads. 

5

Museum Submarine Discussion / Re: Lessons learned on strip ships and how to get in

« on: June 12, 2008, 05:09:59 AM »

Once we have a work shop set up in the aft battery compartment I'm going to remove amplifier A from the 1MC stack and start the overhaul process.  The guy that restored the Silversides 1MC said to leave the original wiring alone, if possible.  It's asbestops with a cloth covering.  So, it's not going to catch fire.  However, if the cloth and asbestos have crumbled from a certain spot, then it may need to be repaired with heat shrink tubing or replaced completely.  Our 1MC wiring is stiff and brittle, but about 95% is in good shape.  My intention is to "molest" it as little as possible while removing and repairing the equipment.

A couple of items on the Amp's.  You have the same unit as we do. Geezerchief((ETC(SS))ex RD2) on Torsk has been working on ours on&off for the last two years as time pemits.

1.) The main power transformers have more than likely leaked.  They are on the back of the center bulkhead behind the amps.  Test them 1st and check for leakage.  They are hard to find and run at least $100 each if you do find them. 

2.) Get a couple of different tube testers.  The 809 and 811A tube are 4 pin.  The epoxy holding the base has more than likely failed and will need to be re-epoxied.  The tubes run about $40 ea.  Test ALL of the tubes and replace ANY that are on the low side of good.

3.) Wiring (physical) should be ok but you will need a lot of patience with it.  Try and keep as much as possible.

4.) 90% of the resistors (mostly paper wound) will be out of spec.  Plan on replacing ALL of them. 

5.) Pots, and switches are odd size and spec.  They aren't available from Radio Shark.  Clean the pots and rotary switches and re-use if possible.
 
6.) If you have to replace the transformers you WILL have to dis-assemble the case.  There are NO intermediate plugs/connectors/jacks to make disassembly an easy task.  I say easy in a relative way.  It will probably take two days (8hours each) to tear it down enough to get the transformers out.  Yours is more accesible than ours is BUT your's is right in the main passageway.  I'd plan on doing the case when the boat was closed (good winter project). 

Geezer has managed to get the transformers but we're waiting on Eacho to get done in the Radio Room so the two of them can get on the 1MC.  Probably this fall and winter. 

While you are waiting on parts/timing/etc. for the 1mc,  you can go thru and check all of the mic's with a meter, double check all of the speakers with a dummy source, and the klaxons on the boat, replacing that which is missing.  Especially check and repair all the contact makers for Diving alarm, Collision Alarm, and Gen'l Qtrs.  Everything run thru the 1mc.  They can be broken out of the loop and tested with a generic PA AMP.  you just have to figure out the wiring. 

Hope this helps.

Torskdoc/Larry   



 

6

New Member Introductions / Corpsman UP!!

« on: June 11, 2008, 10:39:26 PM »

NOW ALL HANDS!!!!  Short Arm Inspections Will NOT be held in the After Battery due to the TM Gang contracting CRABS during the last Tube load.  Instead, the quack will be checking for crabs with an ice pick and a propane torch!!   

Now that the levity lamp has been lit, it's time for some serious stuff..

Name:  Larry Derouin
AKA: Torskdoc
Rate: HMSN
Torsk Volunteer 9 years. 

Major Projects:  After Deck replacement 1999, TOPSIDE Paint projects (1999-present), air system restoration and maintenance. 
Minor Projects: Anything else that no one on the boat wants to get dirty doing.  IE: Jack of all trades, master of a couple of them.

Darrin got me on this site.  Although he talks up a good deal, I don't know all of it, much less most of it.  I'm basically self taught, son of a ETC(SS) who has been fascinated with Diesel boats since damn near birth.  My first boat(visited) was DENTUDA(SS-335) @ Hunter Point in San Fran in 1958.  Catfish (SS-339) in San Diego in 1960.  Halibut (SSN-587) in 1968.  All three were my father's boats.   

I'll try and help with questions if I know the answer.   If not, I can try and find it. 

Torskdoc